Taking the waters at Hedionda

When Julius Caesar was governor of southern Spain during the middle period of the first century BCE, he liked to visit La Hedionda valley behind Manilva, where he bathed in a natural sulphur spring known for its curative powers. Today, you can visit and bathe in what became – thanks to the Romans building a bathhouse — known to the Spanish as Los Baños Romanos de la Hedionda. This translates as ‘The Roman Baths of the Stinking Place’. Sulphur is smelly, but it’s an important mineral for people.

Although the baths are in the municipality of Casares, it is actually much easier to access them from Manilva and both are only a short drive from Sotogrande. Little has been done to turn the baths into a leisure attraction, so don’t expect to find typical tourist amenities nearby. However, for many, the natural feel of the location enhances the appeal of the baths and makes it an ideal spot for an afternoon trip. It’s certainly a good place to have a picnic. Indeed, it’s a very popular spot at the weekends and you may find a weekday visit more peaceful.

The water, which is high in sulphur, comes from several natural springs running down from the limestone Sierra Utrera ridge that sits behind Manilva. The concentration of sulphur is particularly high in the summer months, so don’t be surprised if the water is a milky colour. The smell of sulphur will also be more pronounced, but remember, it’s doing your skin a world of good. Apart from boosting skin health, it may also reduce wrinkles!

To get to the Roman baths from Sotogrande, follow the A-7 towards Sabanillas until you reach the roundabout just past the Km145 mark – look out for a Lidl supermarket – and turn left on to a road simply marked as ‘camino’. Locals know this road as the route to the Sunday market and the Roman Oasis restaurant. Follow signs to the restaurant and beyond that you’ll find the remains of the Roman baths. You’ll have to park and walk down a track to the baths at the bottom of the valley, but once you’re there you can bathe for free in water that has a constant temperature of 18 degrees centigrade.

And, as you relax in the waters and boost your health with the magic mineral sulphur, remember that Julius Caesar was once here doing exactly the same thing as you.  You can tell your friends you shared a bath with a Roman emperor!

Photos courtesy of Costa del Sol Occidental.