Smugglers’ day trip from San Roque

Fancy an escape from the sun, sea and sand of Sotogrande? Why not follow in the footsteps of Spanish female smugglers, who back in the early 1900s travelled on steam trains between San Roque and Ronda peddling their contraband wares?

Unfortunately the steam trains are long gone, as are the matutera smugglers who risked their lives to keep the wolf from the door in this unconventional and illegal fashion. But while the old trains have been replaced with more efficient, safe and reliable ones, the route and its charms remain the same.

The train line, engineered by Brit John Morrison and built by the Algeciras (Gibraltar) Railway Company Ltd, was first opened in 1890 to provide a way for British soldiers based in Gibraltar to enjoy time in the countryside, away from The Rock. It winds through the Guadiaro Valley from Algeciras to Bobadilla where it meets the main line from Madrid.

Soldiers travelling past all 22 stations to Ronda would have paid under 12 pesetas for their first class ticket; today a standard ticket costs around 15 euros and the journey takes between 75 and 90 minutes. Five trains per day travel in each direction allowing day-trippers to take an early connection to Ronda and spend the day exploring this fascinating town before catching the last train back down to the coast.

Most join the train at Estación San Roque, Just a short fifteen minute drive from Sotogrande. There are many interesting places to stop en route, several boasting very well respected restaurants for those on a gastronomic rather than sightseeing visit, in particular Gaucin, Estación de Cortes, Jimera de Libar and Benaojan. Other points of interest to note en route include:

• 17th century convent, converted into a hunting lodge at Almoraima
• Regularly harvested cork oak trees, orange and olive groves, almond and chestnut trees
• White village of Jimena de la Frontera with its Moorish tower
• Spectacular views of mountain ranges
• Benaojan’s caves: the wet cave of Cueva del Gato reached via a 2-kilometre hike through poppy fields and Cueva de la Pileta with its incredible stalactites, stalagmites and palaeolithic wall paintings
• 14 tunnels!

One idea which is favoured by many, is a lunchtime special. Take the train from Estacion San Roque just after 12 noon and arrive in Benaojan an hour and ten minutes later. A short five minute stroll takes you up  alongside a fast flowing river to Molina del Santo www.molinadelsanto.com . This small hotel with a stunningly good restaurant will then feed you comfortably for nearly three hours before you stroll back down to the station and catch the train back. The menu is delightfully varied and the quality superb. Ian and Jackie have even chosen this trip for a venue to celebrate a an anniversary with many of their friends.

For most, the pièce de la resistance is Ronda, where visitors can admire the amazing El Tajo gorge, more than 100 metres deep at its highest point, and the three ancient bridges which link the two sides of this enchanting town. Make sure you leave time to visit the bullring (the oldest in Spain), Arab baths, Parador Hotel and buy biscuits from the hidden Carmelite nuns at the Convent of La Merced before making the relaxing and scenic voyage back to the coast.

For more information visit Green Guide Spain